Myths and Facts About HEMA in Professional Nail Products

The topic of HEMA (2-Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate) has become widely debated in the professional nail industry, often leading to misinformation and marketing claims that may not accurately reflect the science behind product formulation. At Gellifique, we believe in transparency and education, so here are some key facts and common myths debunked regarding HEMA and professional gel nail products.

Why Doesn’t Gellifique Advertise Its Products as "HEMA-Free"?

In recent years, "HEMA-free" has become a marketing term, often implying that such products are inherently safer. However, this claim can be misleading.

Many brands advertising as "HEMA-free" may still contain other reactive methacrylates, which can cause similar allergic reactions.
Some "HEMA-free" formulations still contain trace amounts of free HEMA monomer (measured in parts per million, ppm) due to raw material sourcing and the manufacturing process.
The issue with HEMA is not the ingredient itself, but poor formulation, overexposure, and improper curing, which significantly increase the risk of allergic reactions.

Rather than using "HEMA-free" as a marketing slogan, we formulate all of our products to be HEMA Monomer-Free, meaning they do not contain intentionally added free HEMA monomer in their formulation. However, as with any professional-grade nail product, the presence of trace ppm levels due to raw material processing cannot be entirely ruled out.

What Is the Difference Between "HEMA-Free" and "HEMA Monomer-Free"?

There is an important distinction between these terms:

HEMA-Free: Typically means a product does not contain HEMA at all, but some brands may still use alternative methacrylate monomers that carry similar reactivity risks.
HEMA - Monomer Free: These products do not contain free HEMA but may include polymerised forms of HEMA (such as oligomers or copolymers), which are chemically different from free HEMA monomers. These larger molecules have a significantly lower risk of skin penetration and allergic reactions.

Is HEMA Dangerous?

No, HEMA itself is not inherently dangerous. The real issues arise from:

Substandard formulations that contain high levels of unreacted free monomers.
Improper application, including skin contact, leading to overexposure.
Under-curing due to poor lamp compatibility, which leaves uncured product on the nail surface.
Low-quality manufacturing standards that allow excessive levels of free monomers to remain in the final product.

All professional nail products should be formulated with strict quality controls to ensure proper polymerisation, correct viscosity, and safe application guidelines.

Residual Monomer Content – Why It Matters

Residual monomer content refers to the amount of free, unreacted monomer left in a product after formulation. A high residual monomer content increases the likelihood of skin penetration and allergic reactions.

At Gellifique, we:

Minimise residual monomer content by working with high-quality, laboratory-tested raw materials.
Use advanced polymerised formulations that offer superior adhesion and durability without excess free monomers.

While we take every step to reduce residual monomer content, trace ppm levels may be present due to the complexity of raw material production, as is standard across the professional nail industry.

Can Clients With a HEMA Allergy Use Our Products?

No. If a client has been diagnosed with a HEMA allergy (or any other methacrylate allergy), they should not have any gel nail products applied, including ours.

Applying any gel product to a client with a diagnosed allergy goes against UK insurance policies and brand recommendations.
Even if a product is labeled as HEMA-free or HEMA monomer-free, clients with existing allergies should avoid all methacrylate-based systems.
Instead, clients should seek medical advice and opt for non-methacrylate alternatives, such as nail wraps or polish-based solutions.

Nail professionals should never attempt to "work around" an allergy by switching to another product. The safest approach is to refuse service if a client has a known allergy.

Why Do Some Technicians Still Experience Reactions When Using "HEMA-Free" Products?

Even when switching to "HEMA-free" formulas, some nail technicians still develop allergic reactions. This can happen due to:

Poor ventilation in the salon, increasing inhalation exposure over time.
Incorrect application, such as product touching the skin or under-curing due to incorrect application.
Accumulated overexposure from prolonged daily use without adequate protection (e.g., gloves, proper removal techniques).

This is why application technique and product formulation quality are just as important as the ingredients themselves.

How Can Nail Professionals Minimise the Risk of Allergies?

To prevent allergies and ensure safe application, professionals should:

✔ Use high-quality products for professional use.
✔ Follow correct application techniques, avoiding skin contact at all times.
✔ Use the correct LED/UV lamp for full curing (under-curing leads to uncured monomers remaining on the nail surface).
✔ Wear nitrile gloves when handling gel products to reduce prolonged exposure.
✔ Maintain proper salon ventilation and dust extractor to reduce airborne exposure to methacrylates.
✔ Educate clients on proper aftercare and removal to prevent nail thinning and damage.

I Have Had Difficulty with Product Retention with Other HEMA-Free Systems. Why is That?

There’s a common misconception that HEMA-free products don’t adhere well because they lack HEMA’s strong adhesive properties. However, the real issue is not the absence of HEMA, but how the formulation compensates for it.

A soak-off gel system should create a flexible, durable film that moves with the nail.
Many HEMA-free products replace well-known monomers with newer alternatives that may be too rigid.
Soft, flexible nails require a more elastic system. A rigid product will detach regardless of aggressive prep.

Retention issues with HEMA-free systems often result from an imbalance in formulation rather than just the absence of HEMA.

Why don’t we advertise our products as hypoallergenic?

The term "hypoallergenic" is widely used in marketing but lacks standardised regulation in the nail industry. It can create the false impression that a product cannot cause allergies, which is not scientifically accurate.

No product is truly hypoallergenic because:

Allergic reactions vary by individual. Over time, a person’s immune system can develop sensitivities to ingredients, even those labeled as hypoallergenic.
Some brands remove known allergens like HEMA but replace them with newer monomers that may still trigger reactions.
A product’s safety is not just about ingredients—it also depends on formulation, proper application, and full curing.